In some rural French gîtes, there's a certain quality you don't find elsewhere. A silence that rings in your ears, so powerful that a cow lowing, way across the valley, sounds as loud as a car close by. The warmth of croissants fresh from the baker's. Ripe Camembert, eaten with Pain de Campagne and vin rouge under a hazy sky. Last year, on our family holiday in the Dordogne, France, we found this silence.